## Metadata * Author: [[Rough Guides]] * ASIN: B00VSER07S * Reference: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VSER07S ## Highlights The most rewarding trio for island-hopping are undoubtedly Kefaloniá, Itháki and Lefkádha. — location: [37](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=37) ^ref-4542 --- 4 Lefkádha’s west coast Between Áï Nikítas and Pórto Katsíki lie some of the archipelago’s finest and least crowded beaches. 5 — location: [55](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=55) ^ref-47972 --- the islands became a keystone in Venice’s maritime empire from 1386 until its collapse in 1797. — location: [68](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=68) ^ref-42029 --- Santa Maura – the Venetian name for the island. — location: [1047](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1047) ^ref-44961 --- hit by the earthquakes of 1948 and 1953, and the town was devastated, with the exception of a few Italianate churches. — location: [1082](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1082) ^ref-53055 --- stuffed marrow, — location: [1119](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1119) ^ref-32986 --- Regantos Dhimárhou Venióti 26450 22855. Well-established local favourite that serves a delicious array of meat like stuffed pork, fish and starters such as baked octopus, — location: [1124](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1124) ^ref-15737 --- live Lefkadan kantádhes (folk ballads). — location: [1127](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1127) ^ref-22313 --- YÍRA, a thirty-minute walk from the centre of Lefkádha Town. Roughly 4km long, the beach is often virtually deserted even in high season. — location: [1155](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1155) ^ref-7160 --- Nikiána, another reasonably picturesque fishing village. — location: [1190](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1190) ^ref-27541 --- Palia Apothiki 26450 31895. At this, by far the most attractive of Sývota’s tavernas, located in an old storehouse as the name indicates, they serve unique dishes such as giant shrimps wrapped in bacon (€12). May–Oct — location: [1264](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1264) ^ref-54354 --- Meganíssi, the largest and most interesting, is accessible. — location: [1292](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1292) ^ref-50947 --- Meganíssi is a sizeable island with a decent number of facilities and a magical, if somewhat bleak and scrubby, landscape. The locals – many returned émigrés from Australia – live from farming and fishing and are genuinely welcoming. — location: [1298](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1298) ^ref-30870 --- Spartohóri, an immaculate village with whitewashed buildings and an abundance of bougainvillea. — location: [1301](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1301) ^ref-7417 --- Lefkádha’s west coast vies with anywhere in Greece in its display of coastal scenery at its most dramatic. — location: [1321](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1321) ^ref-32013 --- The most popular beach on the coast, Káthisma, is a shadeless kilometre of fine sand, which becomes nudist and a lot less crowded beyond the large jutting rocks halfway along. — location: [1329](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1329) ^ref-44534 --- dramatic and popular twin beach of Pórto Katsíki. — location: [1334](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1334) ^ref-15193 --- Lygos Hortáta 26450 71716, amadryades-villas.gr. Good local taverna serving up simple home recipes such as moussaká or briám for €6–8, — location: [1375](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1375) ^ref-12637 --- Virtually all of its towns and villages were levelled in the 1953 earthquake, — location: [1403](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1403) ^ref-16363 --- fine local wines of Robola. — location: [1409](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1409) ^ref-5854 --- Kiani Akti A. Trítsi 26710 26680. Unmissable dining experience on a large wooden deck jutting out over the water by the cruise-ship dock, about 400m north of Platía Valianou. Specializes in seafood such as razor clams in mustard sauce and shrimps in ouzo for around €10–12. — location: [1504](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1504) ^ref-37638 --- a more dramatic pebble beach, Andísamis, set in a stunning curved bay. — location: [1690](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1690) ^ref-60469 --- architecturally attractive village in Fiskárdho, — location: [1760](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1760) ^ref-29631 --- stunningly photogenic Mýrtos is regarded by many as the most dramatic beach in the Ionian islands – a splendid strip of pure-white sand and pebbles. Sadly, it has no natural shade for most of the day and gets mighty crowded in high season, with just a couple of seasonal snack-shacks for refreshment. — location: [1763](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1763) ^ref-633 --- ÁSSOS, clinging to a small isthmus between the island and a huge hill crowned by a ruined fort. It can get a little claustrophobic, but there’s nowhere else quite like it in the Ionians. Ássos has a small pebble beach and three tavernas on a plane-shaded village square — location: [1767](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1767) ^ref-17762 --- Kanakis Apartments 26740 51631, kanakisapartments.gr. Very smart studios and spacious maisonettes which share a pool and are equipped with all mod cons. Only 100m from the heart of the village. — location: [1792](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1792) ^ref-63704 --- Platanos Set just back from the seafront under a huge plane tree, hence the name, this place is good for grilled meat and fish, as well as oven food, mostly €10 and up. There’s also a wide selection of salads and starters, plus aromatic local wine. — location: [1800](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1800) ^ref-5129 --- Odisseas Ayía Ierousalím 26740 41133. The extremely friendly brother-sister-mum trio who run Odisseas serve up exquisite traditional dishes from free-range meat for under €10 and do a line in olive bread and other baked goodies, plus jams and preserves. — location: [1826](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1826) ^ref-812 --- “There are no tracks, nor grasslands … it is a rocky severe island, unsuited for horses, but not so wretched, despite its small size. It is good for goats.” — location: [1835](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1835) ^ref-46148 --- There is effectively no public transport on the island, though you might be able to flag down the school bus during term. — location: [1849](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1849) ^ref-24699 --- Itháki’s main port and capital is VATHÝ, enclosed by a bay within a bay so deep that few realize the mountains out “at sea” are actually the north of the island. This snug town is compact, relatively traffic-free and boasts the most idyllic seafront setting of all the Ionian capitals. — location: [1860](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1860) ^ref-5436 --- ARETHOÚSSA SPRING The walk to the Arethoússa Spring – allegedly the place where Eumaeus, Odysseus’s faithful swineherd, brought his pigs to drink – is a three-hour round trip along a track signposted next to the seafront telecoms office. The unspoilt but shadeless landscape and sea views are magnificent but some of the inclines can be slippery. — location: [1868](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1868) ^ref-38506 --- The main road out of Vathý continues across the isthmus and takes a spectacular route to the northern half of Itháki, which is based around Stavrós. This is excellent scooter country, and the close proximity of the settlements, small coves and Homeric interest also make it good rambling terrain. — location: [1929](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1929) ^ref-19197 --- KIÓNI sits at a dead end 5km southeast of Fríkes. On the same geological base as the northern tip of Kefaloniá, it avoided the very worst of the 1953 earthquake and so retains some fine examples of pre-twentieth-century architecture. It’s an extremely pretty village, — location: [1957](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1957) ^ref-11557 --- Rementzo 26740 31719. In the corner of the quay, this friendly taverna offers a selection of fresh fish, baked meat and vegetable dishes, salads and pizza, plus good wine and ouzo (mains €5–10). April–Oct daily 10am–1am. — location: [1979](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=1979) ^ref-51630 --- Yérakas. — location: [2013](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=2013) ^ref-33577 --- The island still produces fine wines, such as the white Popolaro, as well as sugar-shock-inducing mandoláto nougat, whose honey-sweetened form is best. — location: [2014](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=2014) ^ref-38905 --- Off the Kalamáki road, this superb rustic taverna offers quality home-style cooking, as well as grills and ample fresh salads, mostly under €10. — location: [2108](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=2108) ^ref-6734 --- Vassilikós peninsula — location: [2131](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=2131) ^ref-38983 --- peninsula, Yérakas is the star attraction: a sublime crescent of golden sand. It’s also a key loggerhead turtle breeding ground, — location: [2148](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=2148) ^ref-2537 --- To Triodi Yérakas 26950 35215. Excellent taverna with a leafy garden, great for fresh fish or well-prepared meat dishes (under €10), plus all the usual salads, dips and good local wine. — location: [2204](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=2204) ^ref-61700 --- Western Zákynthos — location: [2298](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=2298) ^ref-7198 --- Alitzerini Kilioméno 26950 48552, alitzerinoi.gr. Beautifully restored eighteenth-century stone house with a terrace and log fire indoors for winter. They serve traditional cuisine with a twist, such as the €10 speciality, sfigadoúra – beef in tomato sauce with cheese and red pepper. — location: [2337](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=2337) ^ref-60570 --- Tiny Xygiá beach, cut into a deep cove 4km north of Alykés, has sulphur springs flowing into the sea – follow the smell – which provide the odd sensation of swimming in a mix of cool and warm water. — location: [2365](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=2365) ^ref-62403 --- To Paradosiako 26950 83412. On the main road coming in from the south, this restaurant lives up to its name, meaning “traditional”, by appealing to locals. It has unusual dishes like swordfish in tarragon sauce for only €8.50. — location: [2413](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=2413) ^ref-29935 --- Greeks don’t generally eat breakfast, more often opting for a mid-morning snack — location: [3045](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3045) ^ref-42245 --- Sheep-milk yoghurt (próvio) is richer and sweeter than the more common cow’s-milk. — location: [3056](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3056) ^ref-43754 --- Harder graviéra is the second most popular cheese. — location: [3058](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3058) ^ref-39099 --- Greece imports very little produce from abroad, aside from bananas, the odd pineapple and a few mangoes. Fruit is relatively expensive and available mainly by season. — location: [3058](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3058) ^ref-47441 --- Reliable picnic fruits include cherries (June–July); krystália, small, heavenly green pears (Sept–Nov); vaniliés, orange- or red-fleshed plums (July–Oct); and kiwi (Oct–May). Less portable, but succulent, are figs (mainly Aug–Sept). Salad vegetables are more reasonably priced; besides the famous, enormous tomatoes (June–Sept), there’s a bewildering variety of cool-season greens, including rocket, dill, enormous spring onions and lettuces. — location: [3059](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3059) ^ref-18797 --- The best strategy is to go where Greeks go, often less obvious backstreet places that might not look much from outside but deliver the real deal. — location: [3066](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3066) ^ref-28017 --- The two most common types of restaurant are the estiatório and the taverna. The main distinction is that the former is more commonly found in large towns and emphasizes the more complicated, oven-baked casserole dishes termed mayireftá (literally, “cooked”). — location: [3067](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3067) ^ref-11829 --- Among meats, souvláki and chops are reliable choices; pork is usually better and cheaper than veal, especially as pantséta (pork belly). The best souvláki, not always available, is lamb; more commonly encountered are rib chops (païdhákia); — location: [3096](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3096) ^ref-49991 --- When ordering, the standard procedure is to go to the glass cooler and pick your specimen, then have it weighed (uncleaned) in your presence. — location: [3111](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3111) ^ref-55900 --- Taverna owners often comply only minimally with the requirement to indicate when seafood is frozen – look for the abbreviation “kat”, “k” or just an asterisk on the Greek-language side of the menu. — location: [3112](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3112) ^ref-9987 --- The choicest varieties, such as red mullet, tsipoúra (gilt-head bream), sea bass or fangrí (common bream), will be expensive if wild – €45–70 per kilo. — location: [3114](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3114) ^ref-21706 --- Fish caught in the summer months tend to be smaller and drier, and so are served with ladholémono (oil and lemon) sauce. — location: [3116](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3116) ^ref-20035 --- An inexpensive May–June treat is fresh, grilled or fried bakaliáros (hake). Gávros (anchovy), atherína (sand smelts) and sardhélles (sardines) are late-summer fixtures, — location: [3117](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3117) ^ref-57808 --- All tavernas will offer you a choice of bottled wines, and most have their own house variety: kept in barrels, sold in bulk (varelísio or hýma) by the quarter-, half- or full litre, and served in glass flagons or brightly coloured tin “monkey-cups”. — location: [3127](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3127) ^ref-19858 --- August 15: Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Apokímisis tís Panayías) This is the day when people traditionally return to their home village, and the heart of the holiday season, so in many places there will be no accommodation available on any terms. Even some Greeks will resort to sleeping in — location: [3363](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3363) ^ref-41027 --- Two pieces of body language that can cause unintentional offence are hand gestures; don’t hold your hand up, palm out, to anybody, and don’t make an OK sign by forming a circle with your thumb and forefinger – both are extremely rude. — location: [3498](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3498) ^ref-43010 --- Nodding and shaking your head for yes and no are also unlikely to be understood; Greeks use a slight forward inclination of the head for yes, a more vigorous backward nod for no. < — location: [3499](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3499) ^ref-53816 --- Tipping is not essential anywhere, — location: [3505](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3505) ^ref-5388 --- The hours between 3 and 5pm, the midday siesta (mikró ýpno), are sacrosanct – it’s not acceptable to visit people, make phone calls to strangers or cause any sort of loud noise (especially with motorcycles) at this time. — location: [3509](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3509) ^ref-29164 --- Voltage is 220 volts AC. Standard European two-pin plugs are used; — location: [3572](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3572) ^ref-23216 --- Children are worshipped and indulged in Greece, and present few problems when travelling. They are not segregated from adults at meal times, and early on in life are inducted into the typical late-night routine – kids at tavernas are expected to eat (and up to their capabilities, talk) like adults. — location: [3795](kindle://book?action=open&asin=B00VSER07S&location=3795) ^ref-48814 ---